Burrito Trail
We had our bike out and a brand new Bike-to-Work bag, which we use almost exclusively for transporting burritos. We pointed our wheels toward 23rd Street, Richmond’s undeniable corridor of serious eating, for Tacos El Pueblo, a new taco truck that turned up a few weeks back.
At the Tacos El Pueblo window, we let ourselves get talked into the Super Steak Burrito, which turned out to be a monument to grilled meat, refried beans and survival-level caloric density.
From where we stood, in the empty parking lot — a former used-car dealership — we could hear the burrito artist before we could see anything, the rhythmic chop, the hiss of the flat top, the sound of someone who knew exactly what she was doing and didn't need an audience. Good. We had our own show.
Across the way at the gas station, voices suddenly got loud. A car shot out of the lot too fast, tires squealing as it swung onto 23rd and barely missed another car coming up the street, three left turns, and it is gone. Everyone kind of paused for a second after that, then went back to pumping gas, whatever they were doing before.
Our burrito arrived. We tucked it into our bike-to-work tote bag and rode back to Grandview HQ. It was still hot to the touch when we got there. Cut it open: steam poured out like we had conjured something interesting.
This isn’t a Mission burrito, and it’s better not to think about it that way. This is the older traditional style. Rice, beans, crema, and meat wrapped up without trying to impress anybody. No tricks, not overloaded for our cross-section photo, no need for a personality. Just a heavy, deeply practical burrito that feels built to keep someone going through a long day.
It weighed in at 779 grams, which is usually around the point where a burrito risks turning into mostly rice with a little bit of everything else tucked in between. That wasn’t the case here. The steak was clearly the main event.
The steak was excellent. Plenty of it, nicely charred, chopped into small pieces without turning into mush or mystery meat. Every bite had some beef in it, and you could taste the grill the whole way through. That smoky grilled flavor carried the burrito. The refried beans were smooth and creamy, the crema blended in without taking over, and the rice mostly stayed in the background.
It came with a grilled pepper on the side. At first, we were taking confident bites out of it like we had something to prove. Halfway through, those bites got noticeably smaller and more cautious. Is the music too loud? Are the peppers too hot? Sigh.
A little pico de gallo would have helped somewhere in the middle, something fresh and crunchy to cut through all the richness. Nothing fancy. Just a little chopped tomato, onion, and cilantro mixed in would have taken it even further. Consider this a formal request.
The vinegary green and red sauces came with it. Use them. They're doing what they're supposed to.
Fifteen dollars. Paid in the parking lot where Richmond Eats and Carnitas El Canelo operated for a while, and where the Golden Gate Bistro Food Truck sign still stands. The spot carries some culinary memory, but also feels like a Bermuda Triangle of food trucks, where good setups appear, vanish, and reappear under different names without much warning.
We couldn't finish it. We're not embarrassed about that. You don't always have to win.
Tacos El Pueblo, 602 23rd Street, Richmond. Get the Super Steak. Bring a friend or bring the whole afternoon. Either way, bring a bike.
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